Wednesday, 8 August 2012

Sew Colette 2.0 - Macaron Update

hmm, I think that Colette Patterns may not be designing with my frame in mind.  I made up a muslin, and made a 10 grading to a 12 through the hips.  Unfortunately the waist was _tiny_  Here are some (cringing) pics.  

This was after I let the waist out an inch.  I think I'm accustomed to more ease in patterns, and I was a little vain in matching up my measurements.  As a warning, the midriff band seems to be designed to taper down, while my waist does not.  I had to de-taper the midriff band, making it much closer to a straight line.  I also shifted the bodice down half an inch on the front and up a half inch on the back, this helped get rid of a lot of the puffiness at the back.

Another issue I had was the pleats.  I appreciate the aesthetic that they're going for, but I am at a loss as to why I thought it might suit me.  The hips seem to be more than 16" larger than the waist, much more puffiness than I need.  I am tall.  Tall is not cute.  I tried the muslin on and it did not suit me.  I eliminated the pleats on the back, and changed them to darts (I do not need excess puffiness on my rear end).  I scaled down the front pleats by 1/4" each.  It was much closer to the silhouette that I'm comfortable with.

On the plus side, I'm now really happy with my muslin.  I'm a bit worried about the rear darts being pointy, but I should be able to get them into shape.  If anyone knows a good source for shaping rear darts I'd love to hear it :)

The Macaron is now cut out in the fashion fabric.  I've cut out bias strips for the piping, and have to wait until the weekend to buy cording and a zipper.  I'm trying to decide where to put piping.  I'm not doing a contrast waistband, so I thought I would put some on the top and bottom of the waistband.  Also on the sleeve hems and neckline.  Should I put some on the sweetheart bodice as well? 

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