Wednesday, 8 August 2012

Sew Colette 2.0 - Macaron Update

hmm, I think that Colette Patterns may not be designing with my frame in mind.  I made up a muslin, and made a 10 grading to a 12 through the hips.  Unfortunately the waist was _tiny_  Here are some (cringing) pics.  


This was after I let the waist out an inch.  I think I'm accustomed to more ease in patterns, and I was a little vain in matching up my measurements.  As a warning, the midriff band seems to be designed to taper down, while my waist does not.  I had to de-taper the midriff band, making it much closer to a straight line.  I also shifted the bodice down half an inch on the front and up a half inch on the back, this helped get rid of a lot of the puffiness at the back.

Another issue I had was the pleats.  I appreciate the aesthetic that they're going for, but I am at a loss as to why I thought it might suit me.  The hips seem to be more than 16" larger than the waist, much more puffiness than I need.  I am tall.  Tall is not cute.  I tried the muslin on and it did not suit me.  I eliminated the pleats on the back, and changed them to darts (I do not need excess puffiness on my rear end).  I scaled down the front pleats by 1/4" each.  It was much closer to the silhouette that I'm comfortable with.

On the plus side, I'm now really happy with my muslin.  I'm a bit worried about the rear darts being pointy, but I should be able to get them into shape.  If anyone knows a good source for shaping rear darts I'd love to hear it :)

The Macaron is now cut out in the fashion fabric.  I've cut out bias strips for the piping, and have to wait until the weekend to buy cording and a zipper.  I'm trying to decide where to put piping.  I'm not doing a contrast waistband, so I thought I would put some on the top and bottom of the waistband.  Also on the sleeve hems and neckline.  Should I put some on the sweetheart bodice as well? 

Tuesday, 24 July 2012

Plans: 6PAC and Macaron

I have been sewing, well I've been planning, cutting, thread tracing, and fitting.  I've decided to jumpstart my sewing by committing to not one, but two sewalongs (of sorts). 

I'm waiting on Sew Colette 2.0, which starts in August.  I've cut out and thread traced my muslin, I'll start to fit it in August when the sewalong starts. 

I've also decided to participate in Artisan Square's 6PAC, a 6 piece wardrobe of neutral basics for Spring.  I desperately need more work clothes, so this should give me the beginning of a foundation.  These are the first four items, I still have to decide on the last two:
I haven't bought the fabric for item 1 or decided on a pattern for item 2, but I've already fitted the muslin for item 3, it's the one that'll be the most work.

Tuesday, 10 July 2012

Traveling Outfit - Papercut leggings and Burda cap sleeve dress

Over the last month I spent 28 hours on airplanes and 26 hours driving as we toured the Northwest visiting former colleagues and family.  Before I left I had just enough time to whip up a 'traveling' outfit.  Comfort was my main priority, but I wanted it to be presentable too.  Not shown in these photos is I often dressed it up with a large black bead necklace and silver bangles.  These photos aren't great, I have to twist my photographer's arm to get a photo, and then I typically only get the one shot.  I think it looks better IRL, at least that's what I tell myself
For the dress I used Burdastyle Cap Sleeve Shift Dress #130, for the leggings I used Ooh La Leggings by Papercut patterns. 


I have wanted to wear leggings forever, but my DH is dead set against them.  I finally bought the Papercut pattern, and I love my leggings!  I really like that it doesn't have a center back seam all the way up to my waist, they feel so comfortable, and no wedgies!  The shift was really quick, I bought some 'ponte' knit and whipped it up in an evening.  It's a bit tight around the hips, but I gained about 5 pounds on the trip, once I lose that the dress should be all right.

Sunday, 24 June 2012

Sew Colette 2.0 - Macaron!

I've been sitting on the Macaron pattern for almost a year, waiting for an excuse to sew it up.  Here's my excuse!  I even bought fabric a couple of months back.  I'm going to follow along with the sew along which is perfect timing.  Here's my inspiration dress:





ok, the fabric isn't too similar (ETA: Photos now below photos to come) but it's a Japanese cotton, with gold, red and a bunch of other colours.  I'm going to do the body (including the waist) in the cotton and the yoke and sleeves in black.
 
  I plan on using the dress fabric for piping around the sleeves, neckline and waistlines. ETA:  Like Sherry did here


My Fabricmart Haul

I'm travelling around the states for a bit, so I couldn't pass up an opportunity to try out fabric mart.  I (over) ordered 22 yards of fabric, so I think I'm going to have to throw out all my clothes in order to fit the fabric in my suitcase.  Anyway, I'm writing this post to keep myself honest, as my stash is growing exponentially I need to start making sewing plans.  So without further ado:
This Marc Jacobs fabric was used in cute 60's style sheath dress and pleated skirts (one worn by Rachel on Glee).  I plan on making a sheath dress out of it using a 60's pattern I have.
 This J. Crew suiting is a bit stretchy, and medium weight, so I'm going to use it for McCalls 5927, which doesn't have too many pieces so the matching shouldn't be too bad . . .  worse case scenario I wear it with a belt or add piping at the waist to hide poor matching
This crepe lookalike is pretty stubby, but looks pretty nice.  I'm planning on making an informal blazer, maybe following Gertie's class, but I'd rather do a boyfriend-type blazer.

 This one is brighter than I expected, I'm going to make a skirt using Simplicity 3688.  I bought the pattern to make the pants, but I think this fabric is too loud, so I'll keep looking
 I have no idea what to do with this ponte.  It doesn't have great recovery and isn't particularly soft.  Maybe a blazer at some point . . .  maybe a jacket/hooded sweatshirt for my son

 This is a great silk/cotton blend.  I really want to make a 'couture' version of Vogue 1251.  For some reason I love this dress, and I've got the silk organza and china silk for the underlining and lining.  I don't know if I have enough though, I'll make a muslin first and see if I can eke out the dress. 
 This is a Marc Jacobs cotton.  I'll make some sort of a top out of it.  I'm not really sure, it's too traditional a look to make a classic button up.  Maybe I'll make the burda sleeveless blouse again . . .
This is a great brown ponte knit.  I'm hoping I can eke leggings and a simple sheath out of this.  I made a ponte sheath in purple that I love to wear because it's so comfortable. 

I also ordered tracing paper from Richard the Thread.  I've been muslining almost everything I make these days, and have been making 'permanent' patterns by tracing the stitching lines on my muslin before cutting, then tracing the lines with any adjustments onto my fashion fabric.  I am terrible at cutting out fabric using the pattern tissue, so this allows me to not worry about accuracy in cutting.

Wednesday, 15 February 2012

I hate my clothes

Yep, I said it. I hate my clothes. I'm not buying new ones, so I now need to figure out what to make, and what inspires me. I think it's going to be a long road ahead.
I'm going to start off with a set of knit tops for Tilly's week long wearathon. I was trying to figure out what I needed seven of, and knit tops it is. I'm going to use my trusty 1970's pattern, Butterick 4762:

I've already made two, and have a rubbermaid box full of knit fabric to use up.
I'm also going to make a couple more A-line skirts:
It's actually a great pattern, I've made it once. The waistband is 'fake' it's sewn over the A-line skirt itself as opposed to a true waistband. The back piece wraps all the way around to the pockets in the front, and there are darts at the sides. The pattern calls for underlining, I guess to make the skirt stick out, but I omitted it in my only minor update (well, I also had to grade the pattern, my waist hasn't been 28 inches in a _long_ time).

That'll be my basic uniform for the fall. Once I have that done I have a bunch of sewing to do for my brother's wedding (ring bearer suits) and my husband (merino t-shirts)

Saturday, 4 February 2012

My most worn handmade item - Vogue 1027

It's Vogue 1027. It was an easy sew, and the double knit from Fabric.com feels like I'm wearing sweatpants. The only thing I don't like is that the skirt is too full for me. If I try it again I'll cut out some of the fabric.

Here's a dress I wear at least once a week. It's so comfortable, doesn't wrinkle and fits almost every occasion (at least every occasion in my life).

My little one is wearing the oliver + s sketchbook shorts. They are great, it takes me about 2 hours to sew a pair, and these ones are linen. I tried to make another pair during his nap today, but ended up with two right legs. Off to the fabric store tomorrow to get more fabric and then he'll have three pairs of identical shorts. Oh well.

My husband was also wearing a home made t-shirt, I don't have a good picture though. I'm cutting him out one from a lightweight merino tonight. He's been asking for it for about 3 months now.

My parents are coming next week, and my dad takes tons of photos, the hardest thing for me has been getting photos of my homemade gear. I should be posting alot more over the next few weeks.